Our adventure on Rapa Nui, the original name for Easter Island, continues. On day 10, we drove deep into the island’s most mysterious sites. Armed with a rental car and guided by an indigenous Rapa Nui, we set out to explore half of the island. Our first tour uncovered towering moai, fading engravings and some legends that still shape Rapa Nui’s identity today.
Hanga Te’e Vai Hu – an artificial village & a royal platform
We first entered an artificial city. Most of it has been reconstructed by archaeologists about 8 years ago. Our local guide Lonti radiated pure pride and melancholy. Guided by his grandfather, an indigenous Rapa Nui and dedicated archaeologist, he had erected some of the stone gardens and traditional houseboat with his own hands. They showcase the traditional way of life of the Rapa Nui. We were surprised how tiny and low the houseboats were. I had to kneel down to enter it.
According to Lonti, the Rapa Nui were once 7 warring clans. Many moais, the typical monolith sculptures, are turned upside down today. In most cases, this means that the respective clan was defeated by a superior clan. We observed the remains of one of these battles on our first site. It’s the first time that we realized what a violent population the Rapa Nui were.
Ahu Akahaŋa – more royal signs
On this rough part of the coast, we saw more red-colored moais within easy reach. Red stands for clans, which are in direct or indirect line to the king.
Rano Raraku – the quarry of the moai
The heat clung to our skin when we ascended the sacred grounds of Rano Raraku. In this former quarry of the moais, we discovered the production of the moai sculptures. First, the enormous faces and front bodies were carved into the volvanic mountain material. Second, the body was separated from the mountain. Here, the ancient volcano looks like a search image. You need your imagination to find drafted and unfinished moais.
Ahu Tongariki – the 15 moais
The 15 moais at Ahu Tongarika are probably the most famous and best preserved site on Rapa Nui. The 15 monoliths all have unique sizes and looks. As most moais on Rapa Nui, they face inland. Although no theory has been confirmed, archaeologists believe that the statues were a representation of the ancient Polynesians’ ancestors. The moai statues face away from the ocean and towards the villages as if to watch over the people.
We saw this site for the second time, but for the first time from close (read about our sunrise at Ahu Tongariki here). It raised a lot of questions, which our guide couldn’t answer. As archaeologists cannot give a satisfying explanation either. Many parts of the Rapa Nui civilization will probably always remain a mystery.
Papa Vaka – fishing petroglyphs
The fishing petroglyphs at Papa Vaka belonged to a clan of Rapa Nui that was very connected to the sea. You find tunas, octopuses, boats and other sea-related engravings in the volcanic rocks on this site. It’s not the typical site with moais, but still shows an important part of the Rapa Nui culture.
Ahu Te Pito Kura – largest moai & a magnetic stone
A statue knocked over at Ahu Te Pito Kura today belonged to the direct royal line. This fallen rock is also known for being the largest moai ever moved on an ahu, platform. It features 2-meter ears, has a height of 10 meters and an approximate weight of more than 80 tons.
What caught our eyes, however, was a magnetic oval rock placed behind the platform, directly in front of the sea. Its origin has not been confirmed by archaeologists. Legend says that Hotu Matu’a was the founding king of the Rapa Nui people. He brought the smooth stone in his boat from Hiva, his native land. Hiva is believed an underworld in many Maori stories.
Anakena – the Bay of the Kings
On this white-sand paradise beach, the mythical King Hotu Matu’a and his sister Ava Rei Pua first arrived. According to legend, they emerged from a today-unknown underworld.
Mystery upon mystery
What strikes us is that barely anything has been historically confirmed on Rapa Nui. Archaeologists are left with more questions than answers here. Yet, indigenous families have orally passed on legends from one generation to the next for centuries. That’s probably what makes this island so mysterious and captivating for almost 300 daily travelers from across the globe.
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