Most travelers begin their Iraq exploration in Baghdad and then move south, in most cases because of the city’s international airport. However, we had a different plan in mind. Not wanting to miss out on Iraqi Kurdistan or rely on an internal flight after covering the south, we decided to enter Iraq from Kuwait by land. Starting our journey from Basra in the south, we made our way north by car, all the way to Erbil in Iraqi Kurdistan. It was the perfect itinerary for us, crafted to suit our style of independent travel—where we avoid following the usual paths unless they truly fit our vision.
Day 1: Basra – the beginning of our adventure
Nights: 1 │ Hotel: Jindian Hotel* ⭐⭐⭐ │ Location: Basra
Admittedly, entering Iraq through an international airport is the more straightforward option. However, we chose to cross the border by land from Kuwait to minimize travel time and avoid the need for domestic flights within Iraq. The process, though feasible, is more intricate. From applying for an exit permit in Kuwait to paying for a visa on arrival at the Iraqi border, there are several steps that require careful planning. I’ll cover these details separately, but in short, while entering Iraq by land is possible, it comes with its own set of challenges. For a deeper dive, check out the 5 surprises I didn’t expect in Iraq.
From the moment we crossed the border and were welcomed by our friend, driver and guide Ali , we knew we were in for an unforgettable trip. After checking in to our hotel in Basra, we walked through traditional houses and an abandoned Chaldean church. Then, we enjoyed our first dried lemon tea, a Middle Eastern specialty. We would even look for dried lemons to bring back home later during the trip. It’s such a tasty treat!
Before sunset, we strolled along the corniche, watching the boats glide by and getting selfies with local families. Basra was just the beginning, and already we were captivated.
Day 2: Mesopotamian Marshes – UNESCO wetland threatened by desiccation
Nights: 1 │ Hotel: Al-Zaitoon Hotel* ⭐⭐⭐⭐ │ Location: Nasiriya
The marshes, with their rich biodiversity, offer immense yet largely untapped potential for tourism. In many other countries, such ecosystems would be prime locations for wildlife boat safaris. Visitors could learn about the various bird species that inhabit these wetlands. In Iraq, however, you simply sit on a motorised boat in the blazing sun and chug noisily through the reeds. As we navigated the waters, we came so close to water buffaloes that my hand was less than a meter from their horns.
Unfortunarely, this natural wonder faces the serious risk of desiccation, which threatens both the ecosystem with its traditional farmers and wildlife, and therefore the possibility of sustainable tourism development. After our trip, we found out that in early August, the Iraqi and Turkish governments had signed an agreement to restore water flow to the wetlands, a vital step toward reviving this unique ecosystem. While this move helps the ecosystem, it also carries significant risks. For the Kurdish people in Iraq’s north, the agreement raises serious concerns. The increased water flow could lead to greater control by Turkey over the region’s water resources, potentially threatening the livelihoods and autonomy of Kurdish communities.
By the time we reached Nasiriya that evening, I was in awe of how much Iraq had to offer beyond its headlines.
Our night walk in Nasiriya’s conservative old neighborhood carried a heavy atmosphere. The lively streets, guarded by military, and hundreds of martyr memories screamed the city’s recent past of protests and unrest. Graffiti on houses and walls reminds of the intense demonstrations that filled these roads, which were met with a forceful response from the authorities resulting in hundreds of civilian deaths only 4 years ago. For me, walking in Nasiriya was quite heavy. But it also showcased the people’s resilience and strength to demand reforms.
Day 3: From government-critical Nasiriya to the cradles of civilization: Ur and Uruk
Nights: 2 │ Hotel: Barada Hotel* ⭐⭐⭐⭐ │ Location: Najaf
When we left our hotel in Nasiriya after breakfast, we noticed the “dirty” sky from the swirling desert around us for the first time. This day was extremely hot, sandy and more eventful than we had initially expected.
First, we drove about half an hour to the famous Ur. The Ziggurat of Ur is a massive structur. In addition to the heat and the dust, it made us feel like we were walking through milennia of history.
Second, we went back to Nasiriya to visit the Nasiriyah Museum. However, when we arrived there at about 10 AM, everything was closed. That’s why we spontaneously checked out from our hotel in Nasiriya and drove about 4 hours to Uruk.
“Guys, I need to warn you. In Iraq, you have to be spontaneous. You go where the day leads you.”
Our driver-guide-friend Ali sharing his wisdom in an online call before our trip to Iraq
Uruk is one of the world’s first cities and stands as the cradle of civilization. Writing, monumental architecture, and urban planning were born there. Walking through its ancient ruins, you find the remains of grand temples and city walls attributed to King Gilgamesh. As one of the five biggest surprises for me (read about all my surprises here), I found out that only 5% of the site had been unearthed. Uruk is surrounded by the unforgivable desert, home to some of the most conservative Shiite Iraqi villages. When I saw women, all covered up in black, walk through the sandy 50-degree area, I felt a hopeless compession for anyone born there and realizing that strict Muslim life may not be the right way to live.
Just before entering the first holy city of our itinerary in the early evening, Ali made some calls to spontaneously and successfully find a hotel for us. Then, we were so ready for a good night’s sleep in Najaf.
Day 4: Najaf – a spiritual pause
Najaf was a different kind of experience—much more crowded and yet quieter, more introspective. We spent the day wandering the city, visiting the shrine of Imam Ali, where the devotion of the pilgrims around us was palpable.
To reach the shrine, we drove through the seemingly enless Wadi al-Salaam, the world’s largest cemetery. It’s a reminder of the city’s deep spiritual roots. What striked me personally were all the photos of armed martyrs who lost their lives fighting against Isis.
In Najaf’s old souq, we made some delicious food discoveries and also got some dollars changed.
Day 5: Kerbala – a journey through faith and history
Nights: 7 │ Hotel: Malik Dijlah Hotel* ⭐⭐⭐ │ Location: Baghdad
Kerbala was our next stop, a city that resonates with so much significance in Shia Islam. Walking among the pilgrims, visiting the shrines of Imam Hussain and Abbas, I could feel the weight of history and devotion that defines this place.
My strong recommendation for anyone visiting shrines: Keep a distance from crowds, especially during the month of Muharram. Devotees walk towards the holy shrine like in trance. At some point, I felt so squeezed and almost lost my hand bag. The only solution was to scream around me to get a bit of space and fight my way back out.
For me, as a non-profit fundraiser, the huge number of committed volunteers that prepare and give out food to the millions of pilgrims was another one of so many highlights.
Because we visited during the month of Muharram, finding a hotel in the most holy city was an impossible endeavor that day unfortunately. Again spontaneously, we thus decided to take a turn and visit Babylon.
Babylon reached its peak under King Nebuchadnezzar II (605–562 BC), who was known for his ambitious construction projects, including the famous blue Ishtar Gate and the city’s walls. He’s also remembered for his role in biblical history, particularly in the stories of Daniel and the Babylonian Captivity.
Then it was off to Baghdad—the first city in Iraq where we saw modern developments that don’t happen in Europe…
Days 6-12: Baghdad – the heartbeat of Iraq
We could have easily spent weeks in Baghdad and still not seen it all. Our first monring in Baghdad looked very different from anything we had expected. There was lots of blood. But against all expectations, there was also peace and a very quiet sense of community.
This morning marked the yearly Ashura processions. On the 10th of Muharram, also kown as Ashura, Shia Muslims commemorate the martyrdom of Imam Hussein, the grandson of Prophet Muhammad, during the Battle of Karbala. Pilgrims gather in large numbers, expressing their grief through prayers, recipitations and dramatic reenactments. The atmosphere was deeply spiritual ad filled with a sense of unity and decition. It’s brutal and strangely peaceful at the same time. Witnessing this powerful tradition has been a moving experience.
After taking a day off where we just relaxed at our hotel, we visited the National Museum, a true pearl. Unfortunately, the opening hours had been changed just before our arrival to Baghdad, which is why we had only 2 hours – not enough! You should plan for at least 3 hours in this museum, rich of history and artefacts. It’s one of the best museums I’ve been to.
Another day, we met a beautiful family while visiting the historical site Dur-Kurigalzu (Ziggurat at Aqar Quf) near Baghdad. They made one of Stefano’s dreams come true, driving a tuktuk. You can watch the fun we had in my Instagram reel here.
Unfortunately, Dur-Kurigalzu (Ziggurat at Aqar Quf) seemed a little abandoned by the autorities. We probably also kept a bad memory because the guards were obviously corrupted, making us pay without handing over tickets. Ali even started discussing with them.
Nevertheless, we ended our day well with a sunset walk in front of Taq Kisra. About 35 kilometers southeast of Baghdad, it’s one of the most significant architectural remnants of the Sassanian Empire (224–651 AD), which ruled Persia (modern-day Iran and Iraq) before the rise of Islam. Unfortunately, it’s also left abandoned by today’s goverment but walking around is still beautiful.
Our dfriend Ali also showed us around Mutanabbi Street, Baghdad’s “street of books.” It’s been the center of Baghdad’s literary and intellectual life for centuries. Every Friday, book lovers, writers, poets, and scholars gather to browse through an endless collection of new and old books. It’s a paradise for bibliophiles and anyone interested in Iraq’s rich cultural heritage. We even found a little bookshop with a nice view over Mutanabbi Street.
I also loved walking around on the different flea markets and antique shops around Mutanabbi Streets. And on Rasheed Street, there are many traditional tea shops like Al Zahawi traditional café and family businesses like the juice shop Hajj Zabala Refreshments.
Day 12: an epic summer day of exploration in Samarra and Hatra with military escort
Nights: 2 │ Hotel: Bachtabia Hotel* ⭐⭐⭐ │ Location: Mosul
This day was a whirlwind, but it was worth every second. The spiral minaret of Samarra was as impressive in person as we had imagined.
Hatra, with its ruins standing defiantly against the desert backdrop. It felt like a scene from another world. There, we were escorted by militaries, who invited us for water and drinks afterwards. It was so interesting and sad at the same time to hear their personal stories. One of them had lost three brothers during the war against Isis, another one had spent his whole career – three decades in war.
And then, we moved to Mosul—a city scarred by recent history, yet filled with resilience..
Day 13: Mosul – a city on the mend
Exploring Mosul was a profound experience. The scars of the past are visible, but so too is the determination to rebuild. Visiting the bombed old town and seeing construction workers clean and rebuild Al-Nuri Mosque, we were struck by the resilience of the people here. Mosul is a city of contrasts—pain and hope intertwined—and it left a lasting impression.
Day 14: Mosul to Erbil – sacred paths through Kurdish culture
Nights: 2 │ Hotel: MyHotel Erbil*⭐⭐⭐⭐ │ Location: Erbil
Leaving Mosul, we made a pilgrimage of sorts to Lalish, the spiritual heart of the Yazidis. Pilgrims and other travellers like us visit Lalish, walking barefoot within the temple grounds as a sign of respect – hell, it was hot! Despite facing centuries of persecution, the Yazidis maintain their traditions, and Lalish remains a symbol of their resilience and cultural identity.
Leaving Lalish, we continued our journey through northern Iraq with a visit to Rabban Hormizd Monastery. This ancient monastery, carved into the rock, has been a spiritual refuge for Assyrian Christians since the 7th century. We got beautiful views of the surrounding valley, but the monastry was unfortunately closed. Once the seat of the Assyrian Church of the East, Rabban Hormizd Monastery remains a Christian heritage and memory of the perseverance of faith communities that have endured in the region for centuries.
From Lalish, it was on to Erbil, where the ancient Citadel awaited. Erbil’s blend of Kurdish culture and history was fascinating, and I was eager to dive deeper into this region.
Day 15: Korek Mountains – a breath of fresh air
After days of cities and ancient sites, the Korek Mountains were a refreshing change. We headed to visit the Geli Ali Bag Waterfall, this famous waterfall that appears on Iraqi dinar bills.
Along the Rawandoz river, we got other beautiful views of the Korek Mountains. The Rawandoz Gorge is also often called the “Grand Canyon of Kurdistan.” From rugged mountains to tranquil river sites, there are plenty of hiking trails or just spots to view and enjoy a relaxed roadtrip.
Days 16-17: Erbil – a fitting finale
We spent our final two days in Erbil. While the iconic Citadel was unfortunately closed for renovation, we still found plenty to explore. The old town market (Qaysari Bazaar) was full of colorful textiles, traditional handicrafts, spices and food. We spent one afternoon at Samî Abdulrahman Park, one of the largest green spaces in the Middle East. By evening, we sampled the growing bar and restaurant scene, where the city felt really modern.
Erbil felt like the perfect way to end our journey. It’s a place where Iraq’s rich heritage meets its future. The contrast between ancient history and rapid development was striking, as new buildings rise at the city’s entrance. Everywhere we looked, there were signs of investment and progress, making it clear that Erbil is not only a cultural gem but also a city with its eyes set firmly on the future.
Final reflections
17-day adventure through Iraq and Iraqi Kurdistan was far more than just a series of stops on a map; it was an exploration of a land rich in history, culture, and resilience. If you’re looking for a travel experience that goes beyond the ordinary, Iraq should be on your list. Trust me, it’s an adventure you won’t soon forget!
Epic 7-day journey across Iraq, from Basra to Erbil, exploring history, culture, and breathtaking landscapes. 🚗✨