After spending 17 days exploring Iraq this August, my heart has been forever touched by this incredible country. This blog post is a reflection of our Iraq exploration, filled with discoveries that shattered our preconceptions and opened our eyes. These 5 surprises paint a picture of a nation rich in culture and humanity, a place that deserves to be seen for what it is: a beautiful, welcoming country with a heart as ancient as its thousand-year-old history and as diverse and kind as its people. I hope that by sharing these experiences, I can offer a new perspective on Iraq, one that goes beyond the headlines war and hardship, and reveals the hidden gems that make it such a remarkable destination.
Iraq is home to some of the most (if not the most!) welcoming people.
From the moment we crossed the border from Kuwait into Iraq, we were enveloped in the typical Iraqi hospitality. The Iraqi people have a remarkable way of making you feel not just welcomed, but truly honored as a guest. It’s a cultural treasure here—where the needs of visitors often come before their own.
Our Iraq discovery began with our driver and newfound friend, Ali, who greeted us with a genuine smile that immediately put us at ease. He didn’t just drive us; he became our guide to the heart of Iraqi life, sharing insights into customs and behaviors that we might have overlooked without his help.
Ali told us that friends will always help each other out without even asking questions. This hospitality is deeply rooted in both Islam and Bedouin traditions in Iraq and the wider Arab world. A guest is allowed to stay with a host for three days without being questioned about their intentions. This period allows the guest to rest and recover before any personal matters are discussed. After the three days, the host might gently inquire about the guest’s needs.
If you ever decide to travel Iraq, I highly recommend Ali. He’ll make your transportation, hotel search, sightseeing and other cultural discoveries easy and fun! You can directly get in touch with Ali through WhatsApp.
Ali Ghanim, driver and guide from Baghdad, Iraq: +964 771 001 2428
Hosts often go out of their way to ensure visitors are comfortable, offering the best of what they have, whether it’s food, accommodations, or simply their time. It’s common to be invited into homes, even by strangers, for tea or a meal. We experienced this firsthand in Baghdad on a Friday when most shops and restaurants were closed. We were greeted with open arms and lunch by a stranger, making us feel like part of the friend group. Several times, we were not allowed to pay for our purchases—whether it was at a night fruit stand or at a local eatery. These gestures of generosity were not just acts of kindness; they were a testament to the Iraqi spirit, rich with stories and a genuine desire to connect.
“‘Ala Rasi (على راسي)“
Iraqis show respect by placing the palm of one hand on the top of their head. This gesture is accompanied by the saying “‘Ala Rasi.” Literally translated into “On my head”, this saying is commonly used when someone asks you for something or demands something. For example, if a friend says “I need you to give me a ride later today,” the response could be “‘Ala Rasi”, kind of like saying “Anything for you”.
As we traveled, it became clear that this hospitality is more than just a tradition; it’s a reflection of a culture that values connection and community. Our experiences were not just about seeing the sights but about feeling the pulse of a country that is often misunderstood. With every shared meal and conversation with Ali and other new friends, we found ourselves more deeply appreciative of the kindness that surrounded us.
Border control officers may fuck up your credit cards.
When we crossed the Kuwait-Iraq border, we became victims (or guinea pigs) of a recently introduced payment system for visas on arrivals. Gone are the days when cash was king; now, travelers must rely on credit cards to pay for their visas. Unfortunately, this system was not quite ready for prime time.
As luck would have it, both of our credit cards were blocked during the transaction. The reasons remain a mystery—perhaps it was the frequent power cuts, which seemed to occur every ten minutes, or maybe the Wi-Fi signal was just too weak to handle the transaction. Whatever the cause, we were left in a bit of a bind.
Just when we thought we were out of options, we met a kind pilgrim from Bahrain whose credit card was working perfectly. He graciously stepped in to pay for our visas, and in return, we reimbursed him in cash. It was a heartwarming reminder of the kindness that can emerge in unexpected situations.
The moral of the story? Always carry at least two or three different credit cards along with sufficient cash (preferably in USD) when traveling to Iraq. And don’t hesitate to reach out to those around you if you find yourself in a tough spot. I firmly believe in the inherent kindness of people; you’ll eventually find someone with a good heart willing to lend a helping hand.
Shia traditions involve bloody processions in Iraq.
The beginning of our trip through the rather conservative south of Iraq made us discover one of the most important seasons for Shia Muslims: the month of Muharram. Many people donated free food to mourners, pilgrims, neighbors and travellers like us during these days. We saw an exceptional tradition of generosity and community, which we never experience to this extend back at our Western home countries.
Shia traditions in Iraq, particularly during Ashura, also involve bloody processions as acts of mourning and devotion. Participants often engage in self-flagellation or symbolic acts of bloodletting to commemorate the martyrdom of Imam Hussein, the grandson of the Prophet Muhammad, who was killed in the Battle of Karbala in 680 AD. These rituals are seen as expressions of grief, solidarity with Hussein’s suffering, and a means of spiritual purification.
These religious practices can be loosely compared to certain Christian traditions. For example, during Holy Week in the Philippines and parts of Latin America, some Christians engage in self-flagellation and reenactments of the Passion of Christ, including crucifixion rituals. Both traditions use physical suffering as a form of penance, devotion, and identification with religious figures who endured significant pain and martyrdom. However, the theological context and cultural significance differ between the two practices.
Only a small fraction of Iraq’s milennial heritage has been unearthed.
Many people might not realize that Iraq is where writing, cities, and complex societies first developed over 5,000 years ago. Iraq is even called the “Cradle of Civilization.” This is because the region, particularly in Mesopotamia (modern-day Iraq), is where some of the world’s earliest and most advanced civilizations, like the Sumerians, Akkadians, Babylonians, and Assyrians, emerged. The ancient city of Ur, for instance, is considered one of the world’s oldest cities. And it was in Uruk in Mesopotamia that the first known writing system, cuneiform, was created.
Unfortunately, the percentage of historical heritage that has been unearthed in these ancient cities remains relatively low compared to the potential that these sites hold.
Archaeologists estimate that only about 20% of the ancient city of Ur has been excavated. Ur, located in southern Iraq, was one of the most important Sumerian city-states in ancient Mesopotamia and is particularly famous for the Ziggurat of Ur. Despite extensive excavations during the early 20th century, especially by Sir Leonard Woolley in the 1920s and 1930s, much of the city remains buried and unexplored.
For Uruk, the situation is similar, with only about 5% to 10% of the site having been excavated. Uruk, often considered one of the world’s first cities, is known for its contributions to writing, architecture, and urban planning. It covers a vast area, and much of it remains unexplored due to its size and the complexities involved in archaeological work.
Why is archeology not better supported? First, both Ur and Uruk are enormous sites, and the sheer scale of these ancient cities makes it challenging to fully excavate them. Second, modern archaeological practices emphasize preserving sites for future research. As technology advances, not all areas are excavated immediately. Third, political instability, particularly in Iraq, has often hindered long-term archaeological projects. Many sites have been left unexplored due to concerns about safety and accessibility. We heard quite often that especially the conservative Shia south doesn’t appreciate ancient history, thus a concern that new findings may not remain intact. Last but not least, archaeological excavations require of course significant resources, both financial and logistical.
Travelling to Iraq is safe.
Our 17 days in the Republic of Iraq and Kurdistan Region of Iraq were such a positive and trouble-free experience that I consider Iraq relatively safe for travelling. Of course, due to its hugely diverse ethnical and religious landscape, Iraq will probably always partly remain under a certain tension. It’s necessary to point out that there are sleeping cells of ISIS in the desert and mountain regions. Nevertheless, media shows us only one distorted side of the medal, which is that of a war-shed unstable country. Unfortunately, many scenes we get to see abroad are at least partly caused by Western powers like mainly the US.
What we don’t hear about much is for example that in recent years, Iraq has made significant strides in improving security, particularly in tourist areas and major cities. At every city’s and region’s entrance and exit, you pass through checkpoints. They are set up by government forces, militia groups, or other authorities to monitor and control the movements between cities and regions movement. Even though they consume travelling time, I admit that these checkpoints made me feel safe. Especially Samarra is guarded by five different local military group, who successfully defended the ancient city from ISIS between 2014 and 2017. Their effectiveness in protecting the city earned them considerable local support and legitimacy. Their local authority was legitimized by their recognition as part of the Popular Mobilization Forces (PMF). In 2016, the Iraqi government officially recognized the PMF as part of the Iraqi security apparatus.
Moreover, key historical and cultural sites are often well-guarded and monitored, making them safer for tourists. For example in Hatra, a group of 4 soldiers accompagnied us. They even pinpointed at some remains of the ISIS siege there, namely some destroyed figure faces and interior ground traces that indicate the construction of bombs. After our visit, they offered us water and explained us their lifelong war experience. One of them melancholocally counted half of his life in war as as a military. This man was only his fourties. Another soldier from Mosul had lost three brothers, also a soldiers of the public army, during the fight against ISIS. We encountered so many sad fates on the one hand. On the other hand, we recognized big pride, unity and strength following decades of joint battle against different enemies.
Beyond public security measures, I found that the warmth and friendliness of the Iraqi people createed a reassuring atmosphere. In every city, people were extremely hospitable and made us feel welcome and secure.
Moreover, many Iraqis are keenly aware of the importance of maintaining a safe environment for tourists to boost the industry. They actively work to ensure that visitors have a pleasant and secure trip, often going out of their way to assist and guide them.
Iraqi Travellers Cafe is a wonderful example of a non-profit initiative that promotes tourism in the country. Iraqis and foreigners exchange experiences and get together through their Facebook group (https://www.facebook.com/groups/754425071626757/) and broader activities emerge through their website (The Travellers Cafe – Where the world meets Iraq). We found our wonderful driver and friend Ali through Iraqi Traveller Cafe. I couldn’t recommend Ali and Iraqi Travellers Cafe more highly.
I could share countless surprises from my time in Iraq, a country often misunderstood and overshadowed by its tumultuous past. While it’s true that Iraq has faced significant challenges, including issues related to freedom of expression and human rights, it is also a nation rich in history and culture, eager to welcome travelers. During my blissful 17 days in Iraq, I encountered warm hospitality, breathtaking historical sites and modern development that left a lasting impression. From the ancient ruins of Ur, the vibrant streets of Baghdad to the modern Erbil in Kurdistan, the country offers a unique glimpse into millennia of civilization. I wholeheartedly recommend Iraq to anyone interested in exploring its rich heritage and engaging in meaningful cultural exchanges. Despite its complexities, Iraq is on a path of recovery and transformation, making it an exciting destination for adventurous travelers. With an open mind and a willingness to connect with the locals, you may find that Iraq surprises you in the most delightful ways.
As always, an interesting read and I’m happy to see you encountered so much human warmth on that trip. Out of curiousity, what are your thoughts about solo traveling women in Iraq? Did you meet any? And also, how did you communicate, did people generally understand English?
Hey Bine, I hope we can meet somewhere again very soon and discover new places together!
We didn’t meet any solo travelling women but were told of quite some female solo travellers. Honestly, I felt quite safe as a woman. Many cities like Basra, Baghdad and Erbil have great nightlife. Even at night, I wouldn’t have been worried too much as a solo female traveller in these modern cities. But generally as a solo traveller, I would probably organize either a driver or meet people from Iraqi Travellers Cafe or Couchsurfing in every city.
Whenever we didn’t go around with Ali, we got along well with English. Of course, many people don’t speak English but most of them made us understand in other ways. That’s probably what made us feel so welcome.