Before we fastened our seat belts for a six-week road trip across South Africa, we were bombarded with warnings and well-meaning advice. “Stay vigilant,” lots of friends and family said. Many people painted a picture of a land both unforgettably beautiful and potentially dangerous. So, what’s it really like to drive in South Africa? In this post, I’ll share candid insights, personal stories, and practical tips from our six weeks on the road across South Africa. Let’s hit South Africa’s highways and gravel roads together and discover the realities of driving in this incredible country.
Itinerary safety insights
- Johannesburg: We jumped straight into the deep end and started our road trip in South Africa’s largest and most insecure city. Contrary to expectations, we felt safe from the start because we choose one of the Northern areas, which are known as the richer and safer areas. These include for example the business district of Sandton and the residential Maroeladal. I recommend you avoid townships like Soweto and Midland, or take a guided tour to visit them.
- Kruger National Park: Self-driving is common and generally safe in Kruger National Park. However, our host caringly asked about us everytime when we arrived after sunset. Most white locals don’t leave their properties at night. If your car breaks down at night, you become an easy target. This may sound exaggerated at first, but when you hear about armed robberies on farms in the area, this advice actually makes a lot of sense. When you enter Kruger, avoid Nungwi Gate where violence against tourists happened in recent years. We entered the park through Phabeni Gate and Malelane Gate, which are safe.
- Eswatini: Former Swaziland is known for its friendly locals and beautiful landscapes. Driving through Eswatini is typically safe. The small kingdom seems completely isolated from the rest of surrounding South Africa.
- Sodwana Bay: Sodwana Bay is a haven for divers and snorkelers. While the area is generally safe for tourists, it’s worth noting that locals advise caution when traveling after dark. Break-ins and petty theft have been reported in the region, especially if valuables are left visible in cars. We got our own taste of a robbing tentative at night. After that, we raised our alarm bells even higher.
- Durban and surroundings: According to crime statistics released by the South African Police Service, Durban has among the worst rates of murder and rape in the country (source: Durban’s crime and grime repel tourists | Travel News). The city has its challenges and we didn’t feel comfortable on our short drive through the center and along the beachfront, but outside areas like uMhlanga or Kloof are safe.
- Underberg: The Drakensberg mountains are generally safe. We relaxed in the remote village of Underberg (read about one of our hikes here) where our host and others gave us recommendations for the following weeks.
- East London: On the way from Underberg to East London, you should be especially cautious in Mthatha where crime rates are high. Not only there, but especially in Mthatata, you should lock your windows and doors securely and leave nothing in the back seat. We were advised by many to simply ignore red lights in this city in dubious situations.
- Port Elizabeth: I experienced Port Elizabeth as city to avoid, or where you need to take strict precautions. Our hosts had lost their two nephews some months ago, after their car had been hijacked in the township of Motherwell. We never parked our car outside the private property and didn’t visibly use our phones outside.
- Garden Route (Knysna to Cape Town): This famous route is one of the safest for tourists and is highly recommended for its views and outdoor activities. It was the first time after a month in South Africa that we felt really safe again. However, it’s also the most touristic area.
- Cape Town: This city is a major tourist hub with many attractions. While some areas have higher crime rates, most tourist sites are well-patrolled and safe during the day.
Recommendations for a safe journey across South Africa by car
- Choose a high-standard rental car: We choose an SUV with 4×4 option (Nissan X-Trail), which was totally sufficient for driving on our own through most national parks. I highly recommend it as a minimum because you’ll be free to go off-road whenever wildlife curiosity is calling you. However, if you come for a shorter period of time or want to save money, you’ll also be able to drive on most roads with a usual city car.
- Always lock your doors and avoid leaving items on the backseat: We’ve heard from several locals about incidents where car windows were smashed to grab visible belongings.
- Drive during the day: Avoid driving at night where possible.
- Stay informed and ask locals: Keep updated on local news and travel advisories. Don’t hesitate to ask locals or hotel staff about areas to avoid.
- Secure accommodations: Choose places with good reviews regarding safety.
- Travel insurance: Consider obtaining travel insurance that covers theft or loss.
My conclusion on safety during a 6-week roadtrip across South Africa
Driving through South Africa’s diverse landscapes, we felt like a lighthouse in our rental SUV scanning the stormy seas, constantly alert to the first sign of hazards. So, it’s true—South Africa has regions with high crime rates, yet countless tourists self-drive the country by car every year without incident. Also our roadtrip was mainly trouble-free, except our nightly robbing tentative in Sodwana Bay. From shiny cities to remote coastlines, we learned that the secret to safe travels in South Africa lies in awareness, choosing wisely traveled paths, and trusting your instincts. If you consider South Africa for a self-drive holiday, I highly recommend it!
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