Northern India: 10 days full of colors and ambiguity

Our 10-day-round trip through northern India

Without a doubt, India is a country of big contrasts in Asia. It’s so large – over three million square kilometers – that it’s sometimes called its own smaller continent. In India, you can find everything from tall Himalayan mountains to rich, green lands by the Ganges river.

Our round trip in India’s north was a unique and fascinating experience. It combined a wealth of cultures, religions and customs. We explored the contrasting capital Delhi and discovered the lively and mystical atmosphere along the Ganges banks in Varanasi. Our jaws dropped at the sight of the detailed temple walls in Khajuraho. After more impressive temples in Orcha, the incomparable Taj Mahal in Agra left us in awe. In Fatehpur Sikri, we realized the religious tolerance and artistic vision of former emperors. The pink city of Jaipur made us question certain tourist attractions.

From the time we got to New Delhi, India, everything around us was vibrant and full of life. The busy roads, lively shops and friendly locals always brought us new and joyful surprises.

Day 1: Delhi

Nights: 2 │ Hotel: City Park* ⭐⭐⭐⭐

When I first arrived, I was amazed at how nice and fancy the hotel was, almost like what you’d find back home. My mom, on the other hand, couldn’t believe how smelly and messy the area around our hotel was. We decided to spend a quiet evening at the hotel to get used to everything. If you’re traveling to India for the first time, my tip is to take it slow at the start. There’s a lot to take in.

Day 2: Delhi

New Delhi is a great starting point of any India trip. There, you don’t only get a first impression of India’s diversity and chaos. You can also enjoy the comfort of accomodation and food with Western quality. After a good night’s sleep and settling in, we explored the bustling markets and tried delicious street food.

In the morning, we visited Old Delhi with its Old Fort (Purana Qila) and the lively Chandni Chowk, where countless oriental goods are on sale. Later, we particularly admired the third largest mosque in India, the Jama-Masjid.

In the afternoon we visit the new part of Delhi with the historic Qutab Minar, Humayun’s Tomb, the Parliament and the impressive India Gate.

Day 3: Delhi – Varanasi

Nights: 1 │ Hotel: Ramada Varanasi* ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

On our third day, we took a plane to Varanasi. This city is very sacred to Hindus and is one of India’s oldest cities. It gets its name from the Varuna and Asi rivers, which join the Ganges River in Varanasi.

A captivating city tour was on our agenda, culminating in a visit to the Buddhist sanctuary of Sarnath in the afternoon. Renowned as one of the paramount Buddhist pilgrimage destinations globally, Sarnath holds a special place in the hearts of devotees. It was here that Buddha, after attaining enlightenment at Bodhgaya, imparted his inaugural sermon, setting the Wheel of Dharma into motion. Dominating the skyline, an imposing stupa constructed from stone and brick rises toward the heavens. Erected in the third century by the great Emperor Ashoka, this monumental structure is said to enshrine the exact location where Buddha, seated in the sacred lotus position, shared his profound insights with the world.

Varanasi captivated us with its mystical aura. Over a hundred ghats, sacred bathing spots, line the banks of the revered Ganges. Bathing in its waters is believed to purify the soul. The Ganga Aarti ceremony, a captivating ritual performed at sunset, enlivened our senses. The next morning, a serene boat cruise offered a panoramic view of Varanasi awakening. The rhythmic sounds of life stirring on the riverbanks, accompanied by devoted throngs partaking in ritual ablutions, sketched an indelible tableau of devout fervency.

Day 5: Varanasi – Khajuraho

The pace of my internship had left me feeling drained, disconnected and home-sick. Luckily, as I had a break from my 50-hour job, I immersed myself in the rhythms of northern India. Something remarkable began to happen. The stress and fatigue slowly melted away, replaced by a sense of wonder, curiosity, and a renewed appreciation for the simple joys of travelling.

After breakfast, we flew to Khajuraho.

Day 5: Khajuraho

Nights: 1 │ Hotel: Ramada Khajuraho* ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

Twelve years prior to my captivating journey to Angkor Wat in Cambodia (a story you can read here) I set foot in the Angkor Wat of India: Khajuraho. Renowned the world over, the Hindu temples of Khajuraho are a UNESCO World Heritage Site, showcasing the pinnacle of Indian architectural genius. Constructed during the reign of the Chandela dynasty, an impressive ensemble of 85 temples was erected between 900 and 1100 AD, of which approximately 20 exquisite structures stand today. Situated in a secluded locale, these temples have escaped destruction, preserving their historical grandeur. The temples are festooned with a plethora of sculptures that vividly capture the essence of human life, divine entities, and a cornucopia of mythological and erotic artistry.

Accompanied by my mother, we were both awestruck by the sheer beauty and the complexity of the carvings that have withstood the test of time.

Day 6: Orcha – Jhansi – Agra

Our sixth travel day included a scenic drive to Orcha, which has a special charm amidst green hills. This region allows a peaceful escape from India’s otherwise bustling cities. We visited a temple on the banks of the Bedwar River and the Fort.

Then, we were transferred to Jhansi train station where we took the Shatabadi Express train to Agra. As Western travelers, we were given first-class tickets and felt like colonists next to the richest Indians.

Day 7: Agra

Nights: 2 │ Hotel: Clarks Shiraz* ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

Our visit to Agra was highlighted by the iconic Taj Mahal. It’s a breathtaking symbol of the great love of the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan for his wife Mumtaz Mahaland. Taj Mahal is a world-famous tomb that took 22 years to build. This architectural masterpiece that left us in awe of its timeless beauty. You get the best view in the morning from the Red Fort across the Yamuna River to the Taj Mahal.

In the late afternoon, our program included the small but magnificent Itimad-Ud-Daulah tomb, the “Baby Taj Mahal”. It’s famous for its very intricate marble inlays with semi-precious stones.

Day 8: Agra – Fatehpur Sikri – Jaipur

Nights: 2 │ Hotel: Clarks Amer Jaipur* ⭐⭐⭐⭐

Our eighth day of travel was dominated by the drive to Fatehpur Sikri. Today it presents itself as an abandoned ghost town, where the imperial court under Mughal ruler Akbar the Great resided for 14 years.

From there, we drove on to Jaipur, also known as the pink city.

Day 9: Jaipur

On our last full day together, we visited the Palace of Amber. Many tourists make the steep ascent on the back of elephants, which we refused. The valuable wall paintings, wonderful stucco work, marble inlays and the fabulous Sheesh Mahal hall of mirrors bear witness to the splendor of the Maharajas.

In the afternoon, we strolled through the old town of Jaipur with the Royal Astronomical Observatory, the Maharaja’s City Palace and the world-famous Palace of Winds. Finally, we took my mom’s first rickshaw ride through the market – so much fun!

Day 10: Delhi

Embarking on the final day of our journey, we transitioned from the vibrant cityscape of Jaipur back to the bustling streets of Delhi. We savored a tranquil afternoon, nestled in the comfort of our hotel, where we took a moment to reflect on our memories. As the day waned, my mother and I bid each other farewell. She caught her flight back to Germany, while I boarded a train destined for Chandigarh to resume the final stretch of my internship. Reflecting on the past 10 days, I realized they had been a wellspring of rejuvenation, breathing new life into my adventurous soul.

Guided tour or independent travel?

Even though I generally plan my travels on my own, for this mother-daughter journey, we opted for a guided tour. Arranging a similar trip on your own is certainly possible, but for independent travelers, it might not be the simplest destination to navigate. If you’re up to the challenge, go for it, but be aware that you may need a significant amount of extra time to coordinate everything smoothly.

Culture shocks in India

In six months, I met different expats and travelers. They all handled their experience differently. Many people admired this sub-continent, others felt paralyzed by the culture shock. I guess I’m one of those curious adventurers with ambiguous feelings about the home of Bollywood. My life in extraordinary India was a dream come true. I absolutely loved India for its hospitality, history, architecture, the people’s general drive to improve their life, the country’s colors, tastes and flavors. But it was also a real challenge.

If you are used to Western cleanliness, India’s smelly streets may make you want to stay inside. Just like my mom stayed tied to her room the first day in New Delhi. The smelly overload comes from a general dirtiness but also for example from India’s strong spices.

Then, it’s an over-populated country. A lack of personal space and people staring at each other are very common. As any foreign traveler, you’ll probably experience curiosity, begging and scam.

Just to be sure, you should also take certain security measures. Personally, I felt obliged to always reach my destination by sunset to avoid trouble as a woman.

A colorful region for tireless adventurers

As I reflect on my journey, I’m overwhelmed with gratitude to India for leaving a permanent mark on my soul. This adventure with my mom was unforgettable. My six-month internship led to remarkable personal development and the building of enduring friendships. Yet, it was also challenging, stirring feelings of homesickness and loneliness. The laughter with my mom, the moments of awe, and the rich memories we gathered created a comforting space for me to rejuvenate in every way.

Today, I approach travel and cultural immersion with a more holistic perspective. On the one hand, I cherish the opportunity to venture off the beaten path and to connect with local communities. On the other hand, I stay closely connected to my dearest people. My post-Indian adventures in France and the Philippines (curious minds find all blog posts about my Filipino experience here) already struck a better balance between professional and personal fulfillment.

Have you made similar experiences that changed the way you travel? Let’s exchange in the comments below.

Posted By: Isi · In: Asia, India