Despite our challenges with Bolivia’s altitude, we subscribed for a free walking tour with Cristian in La Paz. It turned out one of the most challenging and yet rewarding walks. Our four hours together were filled with colonial and indigenous stories, told in a knowledgeable and humorous way.
Calle Jaén & Galería de Arte Mamani Mamani – indigenous art in a colonial setting
We started our walking tour in Calle Jaén, a beautifully preserved colonial street, with pastel-colored buildings and cobblestone pathways. It’s famous for its many museums (Casa de Murillo, Museo de Metales Preciosos Precolombinos and Museo Costumbrista Juan de Vargas), cafés and artisan shops. Schools come here to study Bolivia’s colonial history.
Just before leaving Galería de ARTE Mamani Mamani, the famous Bolivian artist Mamani Mamani suddenly arrived and invited us for a group photo. Some tour participants benefited from this lucky chance and purchased art souvenirs with a personal note and signature. I personally loved his colorful pieces, embroidered with indigenous themes and symbols. Unfortunately though, I was barely able to stand up after days of altitude sickness and food poisoning. And so I didn’t take any souvenirs myself – which is probably better for my limited backpacking capacity!
Plaza Murillo: the historic and political heart of La Paz
At Plaza Murillo, Cristian gave us lots of historic insights. You can for example still see bullet holes in one of the buildings around this square. They are remnants of violent clashes in February 2003. Back then, protests erupted over proposed income tax reforms by President Gonzalo Sánchez de Lozada. The situation escalated into armed confrontations between the Bolivian Army and the National Police.
We adored one quirky but powerful symbol at this square: the “Clock of the South” (Reloj del Sur) on the Bolivian Congress building. What makes it special is that the numbers run counterclockwise, and so do the hands. This wasn’t a mistake, but a symbolic move made in 2014 by the Bolivian government. The clock still tells accurate time, it just does it in reverse. The idea was to challenge colonial norms and promote indigenous identity and “thinking from the South.” In traditional Andean cosmology, the Southern Hemisphere (where Bolivia is located) is seen differently from the North. By reversing the clock, the government aimed to represent a uniquely Southern perspective. Thereby, they wanted to encourage people to rethink imposed standards and embrace indigenous worldviews and cultural sovereignty.
Penal de San Pedro: one of the world’s most dangerous prisons and a hub for powdery drugs
You may have come across El Penal de San Pedro in the Netflix documentary series “Inside the World’s Toughest Prisons”. In Season 1, Episode 3, the series features San Pedro Prison and its unique self-governing system. Penal de San Pedro is famous because it functions like a small town. It features markets, restaurants and even a hotel for visitors. Each sector elects its own leaders and the community enforces its own rules and regulations. Inmates are responsible for purchasing or renting their own cells, which can vary from basic accommodations to more luxurious setups with private bathrooms and cable television. Many prisoners live with their families, including children, within the prison walls. On a daily basis, children leave the prison to attend the public school in front of Plaza Sucre. In the afternoon, they return to their families inside the prison.
Rodríguez Market: local food supply
Rodríguez Market is a central commercial hub in La Paz. It extends over several blocks where you can find a wide range of products including food, textiles, cleaning supplies and flowers. You can for example find many of the 200 varieties of native potatoes. It’s predominantly run by Aymara and Quechua women, known as cholitas, who you will recognize from their traditional attire.
This market is where we learned the correct way to take photos of locals. As anywhere in the world, market scenes are a beautiful occasion to externalize local culture. Cristian recommended us to always ask before taking pictures of the merchants: “Photo, por favor?” Otherwise, you may become a victim of flying rotten tomatoes, a usual tool for merchants to defend their privacy.
The Witches Market: powerful Aymara ceremonies and coca furtune telling
The next stop was a special highlights of our walking tour: the Witches’ Market (Mercado de las Brujas). This traditional market is an Aymara tradition. There are 1.6 million Aymara people in Bolivia, constituting approximately 15.9% of the country’s population. Aymara primarily inhabit the Altiplano region, particularly in the departments of La Paz, Oruro, and Potosí. Their traditions, language and customs are especially prominent in cities like La Paz and El Alto.
The Witches’ Market isn’t just a tourist attraction, it’s a living spiritual Aymara tradition. It’s run primarily by yatiris, traditional Aymara healers, who sell everything from medicinal herbs, dried frogs and amulets to dried llama fetuses. These are used as offerings to Pachamama (Mother Earth) to bless new homes or businesses. Locals genuinely shop here for ceremonies, especially around important life events.
If you reach the Witches’ Market in the morning or early afternoon, you will find shamans in the shops. I would personally have loved their fortune telling in coca leaves. Unfortunately, we arrived after sunset and all shamans had already left the market.
Basilica of San Francisco: fusion of Spanish Baroque and indigenous Aymara motifs
Basilica of San Francisco is one of La Paz’ oldest colonial buildings. Its facade, an architectural fusion, is beautiful. This church is catholic but carries lots of indigenous Aymara motifs, like the sun, moon and snakes. We arrived late, already freezing, and didn’t enter the basicila. But I heard you can access the rooftop of the basilica for panoramic views over La Paz.
My recommendation: a free walking tour with Cristian
After a total of four hours together, I highly recommend Cristian’s walking tours. Cristian is a local guide from La Paz, knowledgeable, well connected in the city and with a healthy sense of humor. You will get valuable insights in Bolivia’s history, culture and customs. And you’ll leave with plenty of recommendations for your remaining stay in the capital.
You can get in touch with Cristian via realtoursbolivia.com or directly book his free walking tour on www.guruwalk.com. His free tours do not have a set price, instead, each person gives the end the amount they consider appropriate (amounts usually range from €10 to $50 depending on satisfaction with the tour).
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